Day 2 - Zurich to Lugano

Waiting on train to Lugano

We three babes are now sitting on a train at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof waiting  to go to Lugano via the Gotthard pass, which I believe is the highest train pass in Europe. Don't quote me on that but I think I remember hearing that. 

Stone Kitty

Rule #1 - pack light. Rule # 2 - be prepared. These are conflicting statements, obviously.  My first shortfall has been socks.  I brought two pairs you see. One pair is fluffy, bi-colored green stripes and suitable for in-hotel lounging only. The other pair is black and fluffy and suitable for wearing under sandals, at least in Europe, acceptable fashion running the gamut here. I didn't realize I owned a pair of socks with a hole in the toe, but gosh I do and that's the black ones I brought.  The rain ended up being not too bad, it sure wasn't the predicted half inch. But it was a bit brisk, especially with no socks. I went on a search for socks and came away completely buying the fact that Zurich is the fifth most expensive city in the world.  Oh and people must not wear socks here... After much searching I finally found some nice thick wool ones for 29CF!  I'll just be cold, thank you.

Hotel Walhalla

Our Zurich itinerary was not completely followed due to the weather.  Our hotel Walhalla ended up being very nice. Ann  did well.  Very convenient, across the street from the main train station and tram stop and decently priced (here in the city of $30 socks) at $285 for a triple. We nixed going up the Uetilberg Hill as the weather would prohibit any view of the city. Walking around the Altstadt (once we found it) was very pleasant and quaint, cobbled vehicle-less narrow lanes lined with shops typical of a touristy area. The Fraumunster and Grossmunster churches were both pretty in a simple way but each has very unique stained glass. Grossmunster was the standout. The small string orchestra practicing with some vocalists was a bonus but the coolest were the windows made of thin slices of multi-colored agates. Very unique and simple beautiful. None of the windows, mostly modern, were typical of the traditional glass in Christian churches. No photos allowed unfortunately.  Fraumunster also had standout windows, the most famous being the five in the choir by Marc Chagall. 

Hot Chocolate at Conditorei Schober

 "Annie's Swiss alpine all things chocolate tasting tour" ended up being only one cup of hot chocolate a place called Conditorei Schober. Can a cup of to chocolate actually be worth the equivalent of  about $9?  Indeed it can. Especially when topped with about a third cup of freshly whipped, heavy cream.  The cream surprisingly did not have sugar added which initially was almost disappointing.  But once it was mixed with the sweet, strong chocolate it was just perfect. 

I have no idea what this sign
means. But how hilarious.
And a cool composition to boot.

We skipped the boat ride in order to, yes, find a pub. If you've read past entries, you will know that I WILL find an English or Irish pub and have a Guinness. This Guinness (or two, but who's counting) was at the Bonnie Prince in the Altstadt and was just about worth it at about $8.  While there, It turns out that I made a very wise move in asking the bartender where we should eat. He suggested the Johanitter and goodness were we please with it.  In this very expensive  city, this one was fairly priced with locals sitting alongside the tourists.  Ann got her Rachlette, a typical Swiss dish of melted cheese on a plate that you scrape up with bread, boiled potatoes, pickled onions and cucumbers and bread. Sherre had pan sautéed chicken with a pepper cream sauce that was absolutely divine. A & S reminded me of our last trip, where I had steak au poivre for just about every meal in Paris. I love the crap out of pepper cream sauce. I cook with the mixes very often (must make my own very soon) but typically put it on beef or pork tenderloin. I've never had it on chicken.  OMG.  The dish was accompanied by spatzel. (Sherre, now sitting beside me, says, "Boy, that was sehr gut").  

Goulash Soup! Yum.

I had goulash soup, a new fav which I absolutely must try to make at home, along with a salad.  The green salad was listed as a entree of 7CF. I forgot that green salad over here is exactly that, lettuce. But this was very nice lettuce with a fantastic dressing of, we're guessing, yogurt and dill.  Total price for salad and a cup of soup, including the $5.50 bottle of water, was about $21, cheap in Zurich.

My only complaint: a glass of Montepulchiano was listed at 4.5CF. When Sherre and I both ordered the same wine the waiter, otherwise quite good, suggested that we get the half-carafe.  We somehow got about four good glasses out of it but we were not happy with the 24CF bill for it later. 

We stopped back by the HB to buy tickets for that train  we're on now and were surprised again when the they were 61 CF. We thought they were going to be 23 - 24. The cute, young Swiss ticket agent told us that's because the train's website quotes the cheapest price for seniors.  You've got to actually let it that you're not a senior.  Ok. Interesting. Duly noted for next time.  We rounded out the night drinking a bottle of Bordeaux that Delta very nicely gave us while having great quantities of girl chat.  (The bottle of wine and the bottle of champagne would be drunk later).

I like the typical European breakfast buffet.  This morning, the Walhalla provided he usual  complimentary cereals, oatmeal, various breads, soft boiled eggs (yuk), fruit and yogurt along with several types of cheeses and cold cuts.  I think all breakfast should have cheese and cold cuts. It's got to be better for you than bacon, right?

Love this picture of Ann

From the train

The train ride is proving to be worth the price.  It's lovely and green and so, well, Alpine. And the Swiss trains are so clean, smooth and on time.